iQ Project #1. Part 5. Placing the Border and Sashing Patterns.

Simple Custom Quilting.   iQ Project #1. 2017

5. Placing the Border and Sashing Patterns.

In this installment, the quilt map and plan is completed. This is the last time we will be working in demo mode.

I am not writing every single step because by now I think you should be able to know when to touch finished or continue. However, if you get lost, watch the video again, and if necessary, write down all the steps I take.

There is one place in the video where I could have done things differently so watch the video, then read these instructions to decide what you will do.

This is the link for watching the video on Youtube.

Starting at the main menu, retrieve your saved quilt map with the block patterns in place. (Hint: edit/sew existing)

Add pattern > block pattern > select the top border block.

Path pattern will be used to place the border pattern. Path pattern is a fast way to put a border pattern in place because it automatically combines all the repeats and they can be customized as a group to fit the border pleasingly.

First we need to place the pattern that will be the path that the pattern we want to sew will follow.

Select line in the geometric catalog.

Move the start end so that it snaps to the center reference point of the border block.

Stretch > anchor the S > touch the end point and move it until it snaps to the center reference point of the left hand end of the border block.

Finished > add pattern > path pattern > touch the line (the path)

Select Simply Feathered e2e from the project pattern catalog.

Note that iQ always puts in 20 repeats as the first choice. That’s too many for this project.

Reduce the number of repeats to 4.

Flip Y.

Notice how the pattern is placed too high up in the border. That’s because the start and end point of a pattern is always placed on the path. There are a few ways to move the pattern into the correct position but in the video I use modify path. This moves the path, but I cannot see the path pattern so it’s a bit of guess work as to how far I need to move the path. I tap, tap, tap the down arrow until I think it looks about right.

Alternatively, I could have selected Offset on the path pattern screen and moved the feather pattern down into position.

(Note: try both methods to see which one you prefer. If you see the pattern distorting at the start end when using offset, turn warp off. With warp on, iQ is trying to make the start and end point stay on the path.)

Pay attention to the end of the feather at the border cornerstone – it should not cross that diagonal line.

Finished > add/edit pattern > delete pattern, and touch the line to delete it.

Modify pattern, and touch the feather border pattern.

Use the grid, set to a quarter inch, to fine tune the position of the feather pattern. Zoom in and pan to see how it appears at the cornerstone end of the border.

Move the pattern until its position is pleasing to you. Make sure the start point is at the center of the border block and the end feather doesn’t cross the diagonal line in the cornerstone.

When you are happy with the pattern’s placement, touch finished.

Copy pattern. Select the feather border pattern.

Flip X. Move the copy so that the two start points snap together.

(Note: we will be stitching the border patterns from the center out to minimize fabric draw up.)

Copy pattern > touch both border patterns.

Rotate 90º and move them into position in the side border. Zoom in and pan around to check the position.

When you are happy, touch finished > copy pattern > select all 4 border patterns.

Rotate and move them into position.

Zoom in to check the corners and use the grid to check their distance from the inner edge of the border.

After placing all four border patterns, touch finished.

Add pattern > block pattern > select block and touch the top left sashing block.

Choose lob cont.

Use move and stretch to position it at the left hand end of the sashing block.

Finished > repeat pattern > touch lob cont.

X repeats > tap the plus sign until the top sashing is filled. Zoom in to check the intersection between the repeats. There should not be a gap or an overlap. (Note: if you see either, touch X distance while you are zoomed in, and alter it until the repeats match perfectly. iQ alters every repeat so you only need to stay zoomed in to one intersection. There’s no need to check the others.)

Y repeats > tap the plus sign until you have 4 rows.

Y distance > 12” > finished.

Add pattern > block pattern > select block > then get lob pattern again.

Move it and rotate it into position.

But wait – what could I have done differently at this point?

Think about the other choices I had on the add/edit pattern screen.

Yes, I could have selected copy pattern and simply copied one lob from the top sashing and rotated and moved it into place, then used repeat pattern as I did in the video.

I also could have copied the whole row, rotated it and repeated that row.

Or I could have copied all the lob patterns and rotated them all then moved them into position.

You can see that there are several different ways to get the end result you want. No one method is right or wrong, it’s simply what works best for you and, sometimes, which method is fastest, or which one you think of at the time. It was only after finishing the video that I realized I could have used any of these other methods.

If you want to try out each method, follow what I do on the video, then delete all the lob patterns and try another method.

The final step is to place the double heart pattern in each corner of the border.

Copy the double heart and move it into position, altering its scale to fit the space. The diagonal line and the grid will help position the pattern to your liking.

When you like it, copy, rotate and place the copy in the second corner. Use the grid and snap grid to position it.

Finally copy both the hearts, flip Y and move them into position.

Save the quilt with a new name. This allows you to keep a copy of the quilt with only the block patterns so you can audition other border and sashing designs.

We will start stitching in the next installment so if you want to sew along with me, you need to have the quilt top ready. It might be a good idea to mount the quilt sandwich and completely baste the three layers together so that you can take the project off your machine between installments. Ofcourse, you could also wait until the end to do the stitching.

iQ Project #1. Part 4. Placing the Block Patterns.

Simple Custom Quilting.   iQ Project #1. 2017

4. Placing the block patterns.

Want to watch the video on Youtube? This is the link.

This post does have some step by step written instructions to follow but please watch the video first.

If you are new to iQ or new to doing custom quilting with iQ, watch it three or more times before working on your own project. If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to ask me.

I do not write every single step (I omit telling you to touch the finished button, for example) but give you a good guide. It should be obvious when you have to touch finished or continue.)

There is one place in the written steps that improves upon the way I do something in the video – you might want to follow the better method note rather than copy what I do in the video at that point.

So, let’s get started!

At the main menu, choose Design/Sew Quilt, then Edit/Sew Existing and retrieve your quilt map.

Add/Edit Pattern > Block Pattern > Select Block  - touch the top left hand 10” block.

Select the project pattern catalog and touch the feathered heart.

Zoom in and turn your zoom lock on.

Finished > Add Pattern> Block Pattern > Use Current Block – select the geometric catalog and select line.

Move line so one end snaps to the top left corner of the block.

Stretch. Touch the end you just moved to anchor it in place. Grab the other end of the line and move it until it snaps to the bottom right corner of the block.

Select – touch the feathered heart. Rotate 45º.

Move – move the heart until it is centered over the diagonal line. Note that this pattern is not symmetrical so ignore the bottom feather when moving the pattern into place. Turn on the grid to a quarter inch to help you place the pattern and equal distance from all 4 sides of the block. Scale it up if necessary.

(Note – the pattern has to please you – if it’s a little different to mine, that’s o.k. You may not want it to be quite as big, that’s o.k.)

When you are happy with the placement and scale of the pattern, touch finished > Add Pattern > Block Pattern > Use Current Block > select project catalog and choose double heart.

Scale it down, rotate it and move it into place using the diagonal line and the grid to help. Zoom in when necessary.

Finished > Delete Pattern – select the diagonal straight line and delete it.

(Better method note: it might be easier to leave the diagonal line in place and copy it along with the other 2 patterns. Then, at the next step, after rotating the patterns, you can simply make sure the diagonal is snapped to the upper right and lower left hand corners of the block for perfect placement rather than having to move just the 2 patterns around as I do in the video. Delete the two straight lines after doing that step)

Copy Pattern(s) > touch both the patterns, or select all.

Rotate the patterns and move them into position using the grid as a guide. Zooming in really helps too.

Copy Patterns > Select All > rotate. Grab the center reference point that lies between the 2 patterns and move them until that point snaps to the center point of the middle block of the bottom three.

Add Pattern > Block Pattern > Select Block – touch the top middle block.

Select CQ feather square 7. Move it into position, matching a corner reference point with a corner of the block. Scale it up to fill the block.

Copy Pattern > select CQ feather and move the copy into place in the left hand side empty block.

Copy Pattern and select both CQ feather square patterns.

Move them into place.

Add Pattern > Block Pattern > Select Block – touch the center block.

Choose Simply Feathered motif and move it into place. Scale it up if you feel it’s necessary.

Add Pattern > Block Pattern > Use Current Block – select spiral and scale it down to fit in the center of the simply feathered motif.

Look over everything to make sure nothing needs modifying, and that everything looks good to you, then select save quilt/pattern > save the quilt. Give it a name and save it in your project catalog.

Next time we’ll add the sashing and border patterns.

iQ Project #1. Part 2. The Quilt Map.

Simple Custom Quilting.   iQ Project #1. 2017

2. The Quilt Map.

When starting a new project, I have an idea about what the end product will be, so I need to think about the steps to achieve that end.

What will be the first step?  I have no ready made quilt yet so In this case, the first step will be to think about the finished project and then create the blocks that will make up the quilt. The blocks will not be stitched, but they need to be on the screen so patterns can be placed in them.

This collection of blocks is called the quilt map. It is an empty template that can be saved and re-used. It will be saved at the size for this project, but that does not limit you – a quilt map can be re-sized, or scaled, to any size you like or need.

Our quilt needs blocks, sashings, sashing cornerstones, and borders.

So, let’s get started. The tablet can be away from your machine for these first installments. Setting your tablet on its stand close to your computer will make it easier to complete this installment if you prefer not to print out the instructions. Every button you need to touch, or action you need to take is listed here, step by step.

If you have printed out this installment on paper, it might be helpful to check off each section as you complete it to avoid confusion.

I do a couple of steps a little differently in the video, so don’t try and follow the written steps along with the video – watch the video then either create the quilt map as I do there, or just watch the video to get an idea about what you’re going to do, then follow the steps written here. They are just minor differences but might be enough to confuse new iQers if you try and watch the video at the same time as reading these steps. There are a couple of times when I clear my throat, sorry about that.

Here is the video. 
If you'd prefer to watch it on youtube, here's the link https://youtu.be/YGmkELjqDjA

Here are the step by step instructions.

Starting at the main menu, touch Design/Sew Quilt > Start New.

If a pop up window appears answer the questions appropriately.

Add Block > Enter Rectangle Manually.

Width: 10”, enter

Height: 10”, enter

Continue.

Turn the grid on. Using the grid will help with making the quilt map and placing the patterns later.

If the block isn’t already centered on the grid, turn snap on (look for that button in the ribbon below the image)

Move the block so that it snaps to the grid. Grab one of the reference points and move it close to a grid intersection. The block will snap to that intersection.

Finished.

Add Block > Standard Block > Enter Rectangle Manually.

Width: 10”, enter

Height: 2”, enter

Continue.

Move the sashing block so that it snaps to the top of the 10” block. You may have to zoom out if you cannot see the top of the block.

Finished.

Copy Block > touch the sashing block. It will turn red. Continue.

The copy will be slightly offset from the original – it will be red.

Rotation.

Tap the degree button in the ribbon until it reads 90º.

Touch the rotate arrow to rotate the block.

Move. Grab the block and move it until it snaps to the side of the 10” block .

Finished.

Add Block > Standard Block > Enter Rectangle Manually.

Width: 2”, enter.

Height: 2”, enter.

Continue.

Zoom out, or touch zoom full, so you can see the whole quilt.

Move the 2” square block to the upper left corner.

Finished.

Repeat Block(s) >Touch each block in turn until they are all red.

Continue.

X Repeat(s) > tap the plus sign twice.

Y Repeat(s) > tap the plus sign twice.

Finished

Repeat Block(s) > Touch the vertical row of sashing and sashing cornerstones on the left.

Continue.

X Repeat(s) > tap the plus sign once.

X Distance > touch the key pad and put in 36, enter.

Finished.

Repeat Block(s) > Touch the horizontal row of sashings and sashing cornerstones at the top.

Continue.

Y Repeat(s) > tap the plus sign once.

Y Distance > touch the key pad and put in 36, enter.

Finished.

The body of the quilt is finished, now we need to add the borders.

Add Block > Standard Block > Enter Rectangle Manually.

Width: 38”, enter.

Height: 5”, enter.

Continue.

The full image with the grid turned on isn’t easy to see, so turn off the grid.

Move the border block to the top of the quilt.

Finished.

Copy Block > touch the border block > Continue.

Move the copy to the bottom of the quilt.

Finished.

Copy Block > touch one of the border blocks > Continue.

Rotation > touch one of the rotation arrows > Move

Move the block to one side.

Finished.

Copy Block > touch the side border block > Continue.

Move the block to the other side of the quilt.

Remember to always grab hold of one of the reference points then it will snap to another on the adjacent block. I like to grab the middle side reference point.

Finished.

Now we just have the border cornerstones to add. I am going to add two triangles rather than a square because I want to see a diagonal line across the corner. It will help me to position corner patterns accurately.

Add Block > Standard Block > Load From Block Catalog > Geometric

Select triangle > Continue.

Zoom Full

Move the triangle to the top left border cornerstone. It is much too big. Grab the reference point at the right angle and move it until it snaps to the top of the left hand side border.

Stretch. Touch that same reference point for the anchor (the one that won’t move).

Grab the snappoint (reference point) at the lower right point of the triangle and move it until it snaps to the top right corner of the left hand side border. Zooming in will help.

Finished.

Copy Block > touch the triangle > Continue.

Zoom in so you can see the triangle more easily.

Flip X > Flip Y, move the triangle into place next to the original triangle to complete the cornerstone of the border.

Finished.

Copy Block > touch one of the triangle blocks > Continue.

Move the block into position at the other top corner.

Rotation > touch one of the rotation arrows.

Finished.

Copy Block > touch the triangle at the top right > Continue.

Flip X > Flip Y > Move. Move the triangle into place.

Finished.

Repeat Block(s) > Select all the triangle blocks > Continue.

Y Repeat(s) > tap the plus arrow once.

Y Distance > touch the keypad and enter 43, enter.

(Look at the diagonal lines – they are going in the wrong direction)

Flip Y.

(Now they are correct)

Finished.

Finished > Save Quilt/Pattern > Save The Quilt

Touch Clr to get rid of the existing name and call this PROJECT 1. Enter.

New Catalog is highlighted so touch select and name the catalog PROJECT.

The quilt map is now saved and can be recalled for the next installment of this project.

Did you notice where I did something differently in the video? That’s o.k. – I still ended up with the quilt map I wanted. In the end it doesn’t really matter which steps you use to create the quilt map.

By the way, I am not using the latest update in this installment.

Pantograph quilting - sequencing a whole quilt

This is a long video showing the whole process of setting up and stitching a quilt with an edge to edge pattern. (version 01.30.13)  In this video the whole quilt is set up, sequenced then stitched, using clip to trim three edges. The sides are basted and realigning is shown for two rows.
The first 14 minutes show how to set up a pantograph.
Note, that when the sides are clipped, the stop marker does not show on the 'adjust' page. That's because 'mark off' is selected in the ribbon of buttons immediately below the image. When the sides are clipped, the transition choice is continuous - that wasn't pointed out. The transition choice should be checked before exiting the 'adjust' page.
NOTE: a change has been made to adjust with the latest software version. In the video I simply tap the button to switch from tweak to clip. To stop the wrong adjust mode being selected by accident, this has been changed. After touching the button at the bottom left, you now have to touch the plus or minus sign button to change from clip to tweak or vice versa.
At the beginning the timers are re-set - they weren't checked at the end of the video but were checked after the filming stopped. The project time was 1 hour 13 minutes, the stitching time was 26 minutes, a little less than iQ indicated on the sew quilt page.  The timers were started after loading the quilt - to get a true project time, start them before loading the quilt and stop them after removing the quilt from the frame.

This post links to Youtube, but the whole width is not visible here. This is the link if you prefer to watch it on Youtube.

Creating a saved panto map

This video is by Angela Huffman and shows you how to save master pantograph maps. This is a way to save time when setting up pantos.

Making a Quilt Map

Putting blocks, sashing blocks and border blocks together to make a quilt map or template. The patterns can then be placed in the blocks later.


Produced by Helen Baczynski.

Stitching A Pre-designed Quilt

How to place the quilt you've designed onto your piecing. The design is perfect, the quilt is not -here's how to make them go together.

Produced by Helen Baczynski.

Using the 'Update' button

The use of the 'update' button on the modify patterns page


Produced by: Helen Baczynski.

Placing Motifs in Blocks

Placing motifs in blocks. This is an older video with a 2007 version of the software. Additional features have been added over the years so now after touching, add/edit block a page will appear with more choices. In this case, I would have touched standard block on that page, then mark on quilt on the next page.
This is a simple motif so marking all the blocks and then placing all the patterns before stitching would probably give acceptable results. For more intricate patterns that will draw up the fabric, I would mark a block, edit the pattern then immediately stitch it before working on the next block.

Produced by: Helen Baczynski
Part 1



Part 2
Setting motifs in subsequent rows - Method One



Part 3
Setting motifs in subsequent rows - Method Two