How to Use This Blog

Since we have lots and lots of videos here, you will need to know the best way of finding what you are looking for. Each post has the video(s) of the topic it is about. Many times there will be more than one video that is a continuation of the previous one. These videos will be posted together within the same post. To find what you are looking for, either use the search box or the list of categories posted in the right column.


Since the IQ system is constantly evolving, please keep in mind that some of the older videos may show features that have been replaced by newer ones.



Monday, July 24, 2017

Simple Custom Quilting. iQ Project #1. Part 1.

Simple Custom Quilting.   iQ Project #1. 2017

1. The Outline.

The finished project.
 


This project will begin with planning out the complete quilt on the tablet. We will create a quilt map then add block, sashing and border patterns.
We will be using patterns that are already loaded onto iQ and will modify some of those patterns to create our own variations. Path pattern will be used to place the border pattern.
When the whole quilt is planned, we will move on to stitching from that plan. iQ will be used to stitch everything.
For this project, we will turn the quilt to stitch the side borders. We will use distort and perhaps shape shift and magnet tool to modify our patterns to fit the real quilt. This is a simple custom project so we will not be doing any stitching in the ditch.

The small quilt measures approximately 47” square before quilting.
Cut 9, 10½” squares for the blocks.
Cut 24, 2½” x 10½” rectangles for the sashing.
Cut 16, 2½” x 2½” squares for the sashing cornerstones.

Stitch the quilt body in rows as follows:
Row 1 – cornerstone, sashing, cornerstone, sashing, cornerstone, sashing, cornerstone.
Row 2 – sashing, block, sashing, block, sashing, block, sashing.
Row 3 – same as row 1
Row 4 - same as row 2
Row 5 – same as row 1.
Row 6 – same as row 2.
Row 7 – same as row 1.

Stitch the rows together to complete the body of the quilt.

Measure your pieced quilt to determine the length of two borders on opposite sides of the quilt. Cut 5½” wide strips of fabric the length of those two sides.

After adding two borders, measure the length of the remaining two sides and cut the strips to the correct length, again 5½” wide.


NOTE: I do not usually plan out custom quilts in this way. This is just an exercise showing that option. It allows us to audition patterns and alter them to suit a project, and save a complete project for future use.

If you'd rather not do any piecing, you can draw the seam lines on a plain piece of fabric to represent this quilt.


Thursday, July 20, 2017

Borders, using line pattern. The easiest method.

Using line pattern in conjunction with the quilt's piecing is the easiest way to set up and stitch border designs. There is no need to turn the quilt using this method.
Making one repeat of the border pattern relate to the piecing means that it will always look good. It doesn’t matter if the piecing isn’t perfect and each repeat isn’t exactly the same length, your eye will not see the difference because the pattern fits with the piecing.


On this star quilt, one swag relates to one star block. 
I set this up by marking only the top border, because all the borders were the same size. I marked the border by tracing along the seam line between the border and the body of the quilt, then traveled out to the edge. I traced a quarter inch inside the raw edge to allow for a quarter inch binding. Marking the block at that quarter inch, meant that I could see that the pattern would not go into the binding area.

I chose add pattern, line pattern. 
On the line pattern screen, I touched 'catalog' and chose the pattern I wanted to use. 
I placed my needle over the seam line between the body of the quilt and the border at the left hand end. I then moved my machine to the seam line between the first two stars, and made sure my needle was at the seam line where the border meets the body of the quilt. I then looked up at my screen. 
The pattern was only 2 inches high - the line pattern default. That didn't fill my border so I touched 'height' and used my stylus to drag the image to a height I thought looked good inside the border block. Sometimes I tap, tap, tap the up arrow for fine tuning.

I always make a note of the height because if I don't finish the quilt in one day and shut down, iQ will not remember the height of my line pattern. Making a note allows me to continue with the same height without having to go through the set up process again, hoping I can re-create it exactly.

Once I was happy with the pattern, I touched ok, which set that first repeat in place. I then moved my needle to the next seam between the stars, and hit o.k. I continued in this way until the border was complete. This can be done very quickly.

Just a note: if the border varies in height because the piecing or cutting was not done with care, then I would mark the border block carefully and look at each repeat of the pattern. If the border is significantly narrower or wider, then I'd alter the height of each pattern repeat to make it fit inside the border more pleasingly.

Line patterns are continuously stitched so the top border will stitch as one pattern. 

If the quilt is very wide, then I start in the center of the quilt and set the line patterns in place going out to the left, then start in the center again and set them going out to the right. I'd then stitch them that way, in two sections, starting at the center. This controls the fabric movement. No matter how accurately you place a line pattern, when a very long border is stitched from left to right as one, the fabric will draw up and the patterns will not stitch exactly where you want them to be by the time the machine gets to the right hand side. It's worth having one more start and stop to get accuracy in the stitch out.

In the screenshot above, I have also come down each side for one repeat. This was as much as I could stitch before having to advance.
After advancing, I didn't need to mark the border blocks, I simply set the line pattern in place on each side for as many repeats as possible.

As you come down the side, look at the pattern on the screen - if it is facing the wrong way and appears to be in the body of the quilt rather than out in the border, touch flip Y.
If the pattern is directional, it may be necessary to flip X as well.

When placing the patterns in the bottom border, look at the image and flip X to turn them the right way up for that border (upside down).

Note: as you advance the quilt, these side patterns will not line up on the screen - do not be alarmed. I will often delete any patterns I've already stitched on the screen to avoid confusion. This also keeps the screen image large.

Now what to do with those empty corners? On this quilt, I popped in a small motif to fill that space.

If at all possible I will always chose to set up and stitch border patterns this way. 

               

     


Saturday, July 8, 2017

Resize and Aspect Ratio

Patty Butcher explains the resize quilt button and aspect ratio in this video.



The one time I've found this useful was when I had stitched and saved a wholecloth quilt that was about 40inches square.  I then decided to make a miniature quilt exactly the same, so I simply resized the quilt, with the aspect ratio locked, down to 24inches square. It looked exactly the same on the screen but turning on the grid, or going to true size, showed how the whole quilt had been scaled down. I stitched it out at that size too. At the smaller scale I had to reduce the speeds on iQ to get an accurate stitch out.
Why would you want to do this? If you had made a quilt for a child and wanted to make the same one for their doll, or pet.
It's a fun thing to do.

Friday, May 26, 2017

Pattern design. Rays - straight and curved.

RAYS.
All ray patterns are created using fan pattern. Both clipping blocks and no-sew zones are used to place them as background fills. I make most ray patterns double stitch because this eliminates any transitions at the no-sew zone, next to the motif they are surrounding.

Straight Rays and Curved Rays.
        
These were created in the same way, one using the straight line from the geometric catalog, the other using arc.
Design sew/quilt > start new > add block > enter rectangle manually > width 10”, height 10” – continue > finished > finished
Add/edit pattern > add pattern > block pattern > use current block.
Select the straight line from the geometric catalog.
Move it so the S snaps to the center of the block.  Select stretch and anchor the start point.  Grab the end point and move it to one of the corners. Finished.
Copy pattern > touch the straight line > continue > move the copy right on top of the original. Finished.
Combine patterns > touch the line > continue > touch the line a second time. You’ll know when you’ve selected it because a continue button will appear.
Touch swap start/end points > continue > finished > add pattern > fan pattern.  Touch the pattern > continue.
For the straight rays, I made the angle 10º and the repeats 36.
Grab the pivot point and move it so it is at the other end of the line. This puts the start/end point on the outside with the rays joined by straight lines.
(The pivot point is the start point)
Close pattern: yes. Alternate: off. Transition: continuous.
Finished.
Save the pattern.

The curved rays were made in the same way but I used arc from the geometric catalog. I made the angle 5º and the repeats 72.

You can make your rays any distance apart that you like. If you want fewer rays, make the angle larger and the repeats less. Just make sure that the angle and the number of repeats comes to 360 when they are multiplied together. 

To use the rays as background fill, I first placed the pattern motif in the block.
I selected add pattern > block pattern and found my saved rays.
I scaled up the rays so they filled the block to the corners and centered them in the block.
Finished > finished > add/edit block > add block > clipping block > touch the rays > continue
Select existing block  > touch the square block > continue > finished
Transition type: continuous, so there will be stitching in the ditch around the block. Accept > yes
Add block > no-sew zone > touch the rays > continue > create pattern contour > touch the motif > continue > Gap: 0. Smooth: 0%. Points: rounded or sharp – switch between the two to choose the best one for the motif.
Touch outside the motif > finished  > finished.
The transition choice is irrelevant because the rays stitch straight in then straight out from the motif.
If, however, the rays cross over and into an interior part of the motif (see the bird below), choosing jumpstitch or tie off might be a better choice.
Note: If the pieced block isn’t a perfect square, rotate the rays so that they don’t go right into the corners. This will disguise the irregular piecing. See the heart and bird with rays below.

The rays don’t have to be centered in the block – try placing them off-center for a different look.
          

Sunbonnet Sue by Shirley Higginbotham     
Bird by Julia Podany-Samolyk (digitech.com)

Saturday, May 20, 2017

Using Tweak to adjust a border pattern

A demonstration of how tweak can be used to adjust a border pattern so that it will fit the remaining space. Quilting always draws up the fabric and so as the pattern stitches, the space that's left can be smaller than when the pattern was placed, which can cause a problem because the pattern may end up stitching into a previously stitched area. Stopping the stitching a short distance from the end allows the pattern to be tweaked so that it fits correctly. Tweak stretches or shrinks up a pattern - it doesn't cut anything off.
If you prefer to watch this on Youtube, go to this link.



Friday, May 19, 2017

Clipping Block

There have been some questions about clipping blocks recently so since I am using that feature a lot on the quilt I am currently working on, I thought I'd make this short demonstration video. I don't know why but there are a couple of jumps at the beginning, however, nothing is missing - it's just a quick move from one iQ screen to the next.
I am using iQ version 07.04.16.

If you see some pop up windows that appear on my iQ that you've never seen before, it may be either because of the version I'm using, or because of the way I have my configurations (or preferences) set. Remember to look at those gear buttons whenever you come across them to find the local configurations that allow you to set iQ to suit you.

If you prefer to watch this on youtube because part of the right hand side is missing here, this is the link https://youtu.be/wYksJ47LUbU

Wednesday, May 17, 2017

Sending logs to support using a Mac.

This is a step by step to help those who have Mac computers and need to copy their logs and send them to support for help. Click on the pictures to enlarge them.
(My Mac has El Capitan 10.11.6 operating system.)

1. At the main menu on your iQ tablet, touch system.
2. Touch Copy Logs to usb - you'll see this:


3. Attach your thumb drive and iQ will transfer the logs.


4. This is the message you should see when the transfer is complete:


5. Remove the thumb drive and attach it to your Mac. I renamed my thumb drive 'GREEN iQ'. My desktop is set up to show icons. You can see my thumb drive icon at the lower left (if you have good eyesight!)


6.Go to intelliquilter.com and find support in the left menu bar.


7. Click on support and a form will appear. Fill it out and scroll down until you get to this:


8. Touch 'Choose file'. This is what I see when I do that - a window opens up automatically showing a list of my documents.


9. I want to see my thumb drive, so I scroll down the left hand side menu of that window until I see GREEN IQ.


10. I click on that and it opens, showing me all the items on my thumb drive.


11. I click on logs.tar.gz, then 'Choose' at the bottom right. The window closes by itself.


12. My logs are now automatically attached to the support form. You can see them listed next to the 'Choose File' button I selected.


You do not need to choose any more files. Complete the form and submit it to support.

Friday, April 21, 2017

Quilt Advance Assistance.

Robin Wilson is demonstrating QAA in this short video.
If you prefer to watch it on You Tube, go to this link.




Thank you, Robin!

Monday, January 2, 2017

Modern pantos - example Troubled Seas from Its a Quilt Thing.

This was originally written to one puzzled iQ owner but I think it might help many who are having problems with this type of pantograph pattern.

Troubled Seas, from It's a Quilt Thing, isn’t like an ordinary panto so it can’t be set up as a pantograph pattern. There are several patterns for sale right now like this and to know which are unusual, read the description of the pattern. They’ll usually state that they are long - Troubled Seas say it's says 120” long in the description on It's a Quilt Thing web site. That’s the clue as to how to set them up. 
With these patterns, it’s beneficial to set up and save a complete quilt that’s large. These steps will show you how to do that and then at the end, i’ll describe how to use the master saved quilt. You can do this with your tablet in demo mode off the machine, if you prefer.

Follow these steps starting at the main menu.
Design/Sew Quilt > Start new > (if pop up windows appear, answer those questions) 
Block pattern > enter rectangle manually > width 120”, enter, height 120”, enter, continue > finished.
Find Troubled Seas in your pattern library and select it. (this is assuming you've already purchased it)

Look at the image - if the pattern isn’t horizontal, rotate it until it is. Since this pattern is 120” wide and your block is 120” wide, it should fit at the designed scale.
Look at the pattern - make sure the S and E are at the left hand end and that the S is at the top and the E at the bottom. Rotate the pattern or flip it to get this image.
Now move it to the top of the block.

Finished > Repeat pattern > touch the pattern, continue
Touch Y repeats, then touch the plus sign.  Mine looked like this.

The gap between the rows needs to be closed so touch Y distance, then tap the minus sign until the bottom row has snugged up against the top row to your liking.


Touch Y repeats again and tap the plus sign until the block is filled. I went to 10 repeats. They slightly overlap the block but that doesn’t matter.


Finished > Finished > Save Quilt/Pattern > Save the quilt > Give the quilt a name (perhaps Troubled Seas). Put it in a quilt catalog, perhaps a new one named Master Quilts, or pantos, or something that makes sense to you.

Now I’ll describe how to use this master quilt.  Back out to the main menu.

Design/Sew Quilt > Edit/sew Existing > Select the saved troubled seas master, continue.
If I was working on a quilt and had it loaded, at this point I’d touch the top, center reference point and move my needle to that point on the quilt. If you’re doing this in demo mode, it doesn’t matter where you touch the image.

The next button to touch is Add/Edit Block > add block > clipping block.
Touch the button that says select all, continue.
Enter rectangle manually > enter the dimensions of your quilt ( I entered 78” x 90”)
Now you’ll see something like this.

Touch the move button and move the clipping block around until you like how the pattern looks. I did this.


Finished > answer continue if you get the pop up window with the statement about how much pattern has been clipped. (this may not appear, it depends upon the way your configurations are set)

Now you must choose the transition that will happen at the edge of the quilt where the pattern is clipped off. I usually choose continuous for edge to edge patterns because that stitching will be either right at the edge or off the edge of the quilt. 
Accept > Yes > Finished > Sew Quilt > select the top row. (I sequence the whole quilt when doing edge to edge quilts so I’d touch panto sequencing assistance and make my choices. I nearly always choose stop to cut threads between the rows because I only have a small throated machine so need to advance between each row)

At that point I touched sew quilt and my machine started to move to the start point of the first row BUT i hadn’t yet aligned my quilt with where I set the clipped block so I touched pause, then touched realign and followed the steps to align my image with my quilt. If you can’t see any of the quilt in the image, touch zoom, then zoom full so you can do the alignment.
As soon as you’ve aligned the image with the quilt, iQ will move to the start of the first row and the quilting will begin.

This pattern does stitch each row back and forth. I know my machine is picky about stitching right to left so I need to see if it will stitch nicely or not. If I find my thread breaking on the right to left lines, I’ll have to split each line and make them all stitch left to right. That’s another lesson if you find your machine can’t stitch right to left without breaking the thread.

Rember, the clue to this type of edge to edge or panto pattern is to read the pattern's description at the vendors web site. If it's a long pattern, it cannot be set up as a panto but must be set up as a repeated block pattern.

The video showing setting up a Meadowlyon pictogram is a very similar method.