How to Use This Blog

Since we have lots and lots of videos here, you will need to know the best way of finding what you are looking for. Each post has the video(s) of the topic it is about. Many times there will be more than one video that is a continuation of the previous one. These videos will be posted together within the same post. To find what you are looking for, either use the search box or the list of categories posted in the right column.

Since the IQ system is constantly evolving, please keep in mind that some of the older videos may show features that have been replaced by newer ones.

Thursday, December 14, 2017

Adding width to a panto.

Patty Butcher recently made this video showing how to add width to a panto row.

To watch it on Youtube, use this link.

Monday, October 30, 2017

No-sew zones in a pantograph on a large quilt.

No-Sew Zones in a Pantograph on a Large Quilt.
Note: this gives an overview with some steps included. These notes came from the handout from my class about no-sew zones so I was demonstrating these steps. My chatter would have included additional information. If you are new to iQ, then these notes may leave you with questions - don't hesitate to ask those questions on the Yahoo iQ forum or Friends Using iQ facebook page. I check both often.

When there is an area on a quilt that you do not want to stitch over with an E2E pattern, a no-sew zone needs to be created.
First set up the pantograph as usual.
Once the quilt is mounted on the machine, align the quilt image with the real quilt by using the top left corner as the reference point.
When the area you do not want to stitch over is in the part of the quilt you are about to stitch, you need to create a no-sew zone using these steps:
Add/edit block > add block > standard block > trace or mark on quilt
I prefer to mark the block then later define it as a no-sew zone because I can see where I need to split the pattern and then modify it if possible. If I chose no-sew zone instead of standard block at this first stage, the pattern would be eliminated immediately.

Note: If you want to stitch in the ditch around the no-sew zone, you can do this manually as you mark the no-sew zone by lifting the motors and using trace on quilt.

Before going any further, zoom in to look at where the no-sew zone crosses over the patterns.  Does it cover the whole height of a row? Does it cover part of a row?
When the no-sew zone completely covers a pattern row, spilt the pattern anywhere within the block you have just marked. This will eliminate most of the transitions because it has turned one pattern into two.
Follow these steps to split the pattern. Finished > add/edit pattern > split pattern. Touch the pattern anywhere within the no-sew zone and then split.

When the no-sew zone only partially covers a row, you may still want to split the row so that it can be stitched from the no-sew zone outwards. Alternatively, you may decide that leaving the pattern complete will work better. Look to see if the pattern can be modified slightly to go around the no-sew zone. You may be able to eliminate parts and keep the pattern stitching without a transition.
This photo shows how I adjusted an E2E pattern to stitch around a no-sew zone.
                                          (Anne Bright’s Animal Friends Elephant)
Having split the patterns and perhaps modified them, follow these steps to complete the no-sew zone.
Add/edit block > add block > no-sew zone > touch the patterns that are going to be cut by the no-sew zone > continue > select existing block and touch the block you marked > continue > finished

Now choose the transition you prefer. If you choose continuous, smooth can be used to modify the transitions.  Pay attention to how the pattern will stitch around the edge of the no-sew zone – if there is a lot of backtracking or the pattern is dense; continuous may not be the best choice.

If you want to use smooth to modify the pattern, select continuous as the transition for the no-sew zone then when you get to the Design/Sew page, choose add/edit pattern > smooth pattern > touch the row you want to smooth > continue.
Grab the start point with the stylus and move it close to the no-sew zone. Grab the end point and drag it close to the no-sew zone.
Zoom into the pattern where it is cut by the no-sew zone. Touch smooth and then tap the + sign. Notice how it smooths the sharp corners of the continuous transitions.
The other transition choices are tie off and jump stitch. With either one you can eliminate some jumps or tie offs by changing the threshold.  The threshold is in inches – if you change it to one inch, IQ will stitch any distance between where the pattern enters and exits the no-sew zone that is less than one inch, as a straight line. It will jump or pause for distances greater than one inch.
Your choice of transition depends upon the pattern you are using and your preference.
Setting the transition to jump stitch clearly shows where the pattern is cut.
Once the transition is set, continue until you get to the design/sew page and select sew quilt.

Touch the pattern on the left side of the no-sew zone and make sure the start point is next to the no-sew zone. Continue. Touch the pattern on the other side of the no-sew zone and again make sure the start point next to the no-sew zone.  The machine will stitch away from the no-sew zone on both sides. This eliminates any risk of the end of the stitching overlapping into the no-sew zone
My preference is to sequence the whole quilt when sewing pantographs but when there are no-sew zones, it is better to sequence only the rows that can be can stitched in one pass. The no-sew zones will be marked as you come to them when stitching. This will mean that you will have to exit out of the sew quilt page back to add/edit block in order to mark the no-sew zones, so sequencing only the rows that are affected and about to be stitched is more efficient.

If there are multiple no-sew zones in one pass, stitch the patterns between the no-sew zones first then the patterns at the edges of the quilt.

If the no-sew area is larger than the exposed part of the quilt, mark-on-quilt as much of the no-sew zone as possible. Mark the side and top accurately but simply mark a straight line across the base, away from the last row to be stitched in that pass. When you select the patterns to be affected, only touch the rows that are about to be stitched. Do not touch the row that may have a partial no-sew zone.

This shows the stitching sequence for the two rows.

When you advance the quilt you’ll mark-on-quilt the next part of the no-sew zone. It probably won’t match up on the screen with the part of the no-sew zone that’s already marked but don’t worry. You’ve marked accurately, so it will stitch accurately.

Monday, September 25, 2017

iQ Project #1. Part 10.

Simple Custom Quilting.   iQ Project #1. 2017

10.  The final 2 borders and the border cornerstones.

The quilt has been turned so that the final two borders can be stitched.  This makes it easy to adjust the full length of the pattern and stitch it in just two parts.
Having turned the quilt, it’s then necessary to turn the image on the screen. This project was a square quilt so it wasn’t really necessary to turn the image – if it had been rectangular it would have had to be turned. Whether it’s turned clockwise or counter clockwise is up to you. Pay attention to the way you turn the quilt on the frame and turn the image the same way. This is a good habit to get into for those times when a quilt isn’t symmetrical, for instance when it may have piecing on one end of a border.

Align the quilt map off to the side.
In the video I mark on quilt the top border with diagonals at the corners. Don’t do this – follow the better method below. 
The video does not show the pattern being stitched although I do talk about the different ways to sequence the patterns. Upon stitching I discovered that my quilt moved quite a lot so that made me think of a better way to both mark my blocks and how to sequence the stitching. Follow this new method instead of the way I do it in the video.

A better method for marking and stitching the border block on a turned quilt.
Add/edit block > add block > standard block > mark on quilt.
Start at the top left corner of the quilt. Mark along the top raw edge then come down the side raw edge until you are in line with the seam. Mark in towards the left and when you reach the stitching, mark points along the stitching, as shown here. (The green lines are my needle crosshairs.)
Mark along the seam line until you reach the stitching at the left hand end. Mark along the stitching out to the raw edge, as shown here.

Here is the completed block.
Copy the feather patterns from the map and move them to the new block.
Modify them as necessary, just as I did in the video. Match the center of the feather pattern to the center of the block and then move it down into position. Zoom in to check the distance between the seam line and the pattern.
Look at each end. Make the pattern to be stitched meet up with the marked end of the borders.
Change the width then use stretch, as shown in the video.
Here are my screenshots of the pattern in the new block, before and after modification.
The left hand end needed more modification than the right hand end. I changed the width then selected the left hand feather and used stretch to match it to the previous stitching. The distance was too great between the border and the pattern so I used shape shift to bring that portion down.

I only needed to use stretch at the right hand end after altering the width..
Stretch can alter the scale of the pattern but when you use it to make minor adjustments such as this, the difference in scale is very small and not noticeable. 
Here is the whole border.
In the video you’ll see I have trouble using the measure tool. Since I was working at an angle, it was hard to see exactly where I was touching the screen and I didn’t get it right. When standing in front of the screen, I touch slightly above the measure tool’s end crosshairs in order to drag them to the places I want to measure. (I did do this successfully in an earlier video)

Sequence the feathers. After stitching one half of the feather pattern, align to the center (as done in the first video about stitching the top border) then move the needle to the stitched side, placing it over the stitching where it needs to match the yet to be quilted pattern. Set zoom to true size and look up at the screen to see if it is where it should be. (I do this in the video when modifying the pattern) If there is a big difference, back out to the modify pattern page and alter the pattern. If there’s only a tiny difference, be prepared to move the fabric slightly as the stitching approaches the end, Remember, the fabric will draw up.
Stitch the second half of the border pattern.

After stitching the feathers, back out to add/edit pattern > delete pattern > touch the feathers that have been stitched to get rid of them.
Finished > add/edit block > delete block > touch the border block > finished.
Add/edit block > add block > standard block > mark on quilt. Mark along the stitching and the outside edges of the corner.
Add/edit pattern > copy pattern > move the heart into position. Refer back to your quilt map to see the way you originally placed the heart so you can match that on the real quilt.

This screenshot shows my marked corner block.  You can see how many points I marked along the stitching – each small green square is where I clicked to mark the block. (That green vertical line is part of one of my needle crosshairs)

Stitch the heart.
Back out and mark the other corner block, move the heart pattern and stitch it.

Advance your quilt and mark and stitch the bottom border in the same way.

Here is the video. Ofcourse, it's the last part of the project - not what I say in the video! 

If you prefer to watch it on youtube, this is the link.