How to Use This Blog

Since we have lots and lots of videos here, you will need to know the best way of finding what you are looking for. Each post has the video(s) of the topic it is about. Many times there will be more than one video that is a continuation of the previous one. These videos will be posted together within the same post. To find what you are looking for, either use the search box or the list of categories posted in the right column.


Since the IQ system is constantly evolving, please keep in mind that some of the older videos may show features that have been replaced by newer ones.



Monday, July 24, 2017

Simple Custom Quilting. iQ Project #1. Part 1.

Simple Custom Quilting.   iQ Project #1. 2017

1. The Outline.

The finished project.
 


This project will begin with planning out the complete quilt on the tablet. We will create a quilt map then add block, sashing and border patterns.
We will be using patterns that are already loaded onto iQ and will modify some of those patterns to create our own variations. Path pattern will be used to place the border pattern.
When the whole quilt is planned, we will move on to stitching from that plan. iQ will be used to stitch everything.
For this project, we will turn the quilt to stitch the side borders. We will use distort and perhaps shape shift and magnet tool to modify our patterns to fit the real quilt. This is a simple custom project so we will not be doing any stitching in the ditch.

The small quilt measures approximately 47” square before quilting.
Cut 9, 10½” squares for the blocks.
Cut 24, 2½” x 10½” rectangles for the sashing.
Cut 16, 2½” x 2½” squares for the sashing cornerstones.

Stitch the quilt body in rows as follows:
Row 1 – cornerstone, sashing, cornerstone, sashing, cornerstone, sashing, cornerstone.
Row 2 – sashing, block, sashing, block, sashing, block, sashing.
Row 3 – same as row 1
Row 4 - same as row 2
Row 5 – same as row 1.
Row 6 – same as row 2.
Row 7 – same as row 1.

Stitch the rows together to complete the body of the quilt.

Measure your pieced quilt to determine the length of two borders on opposite sides of the quilt. Cut 5½” wide strips of fabric the length of those two sides.

After adding two borders, measure the length of the remaining two sides and cut the strips to the correct length, again 5½” wide.


NOTE: I do not usually plan out custom quilts in this way. This is just an exercise showing that option. It allows us to audition patterns and alter them to suit a project, and save a complete project for future use.

If you'd rather not do any piecing, you can draw the seam lines on a plain piece of fabric to represent this quilt.


Thursday, July 20, 2017

Borders, using line pattern. The easiest method.

Using line pattern in conjunction with the quilt's piecing is the easiest way to set up and stitch border designs. There is no need to turn the quilt using this method.
Making one repeat of the border pattern relate to the piecing means that it will always look good. It doesn’t matter if the piecing isn’t perfect and each repeat isn’t exactly the same length, your eye will not see the difference because the pattern fits with the piecing.


On this star quilt, one swag relates to one star block. 
I set this up by marking only the top border, because all the borders were the same size. I marked the border by tracing along the seam line between the border and the body of the quilt, then traveled out to the edge. I traced a quarter inch inside the raw edge to allow for a quarter inch binding. Marking the block at that quarter inch, meant that I could see that the pattern would not go into the binding area.

I chose add pattern, line pattern. 
On the line pattern screen, I touched 'catalog' and chose the pattern I wanted to use. 
I placed my needle over the seam line between the body of the quilt and the border at the left hand end. I then moved my machine to the seam line between the first two stars, and made sure my needle was at the seam line where the border meets the body of the quilt. I then looked up at my screen. 
The pattern was only 2 inches high - the line pattern default. That didn't fill my border so I touched 'height' and used my stylus to drag the image to a height I thought looked good inside the border block. Sometimes I tap, tap, tap the up arrow for fine tuning.

I always make a note of the height because if I don't finish the quilt in one day and shut down, iQ will not remember the height of my line pattern. Making a note allows me to continue with the same height without having to go through the set up process again, hoping I can re-create it exactly.

Once I was happy with the pattern, I touched ok, which set that first repeat in place. I then moved my needle to the next seam between the stars, and hit o.k. I continued in this way until the border was complete. This can be done very quickly.

Just a note: if the border varies in height because the piecing or cutting was not done with care, then I would mark the border block carefully and look at each repeat of the pattern. If the border is significantly narrower or wider, then I'd alter the height of each pattern repeat to make it fit inside the border more pleasingly.

Line patterns are continuously stitched so the top border will stitch as one pattern. 

If the quilt is very wide, then I start in the center of the quilt and set the line patterns in place going out to the left, then start in the center again and set them going out to the right. I'd then stitch them that way, in two sections, starting at the center. This controls the fabric movement. No matter how accurately you place a line pattern, when a very long border is stitched from left to right as one, the fabric will draw up and the patterns will not stitch exactly where you want them to be by the time the machine gets to the right hand side. It's worth having one more start and stop to get accuracy in the stitch out.

In the screenshot above, I have also come down each side for one repeat. This was as much as I could stitch before having to advance.
After advancing, I didn't need to mark the border blocks, I simply set the line pattern in place on each side for as many repeats as possible.

As you come down the side, look at the pattern on the screen - if it is facing the wrong way and appears to be in the body of the quilt rather than out in the border, touch flip Y.
If the pattern is directional, it may be necessary to flip X as well.

When placing the patterns in the bottom border, look at the image and flip X to turn them the right way up for that border (upside down).

Note: as you advance the quilt, these side patterns will not line up on the screen - do not be alarmed. I will often delete any patterns I've already stitched on the screen to avoid confusion. This also keeps the screen image large.

Now what to do with those empty corners? On this quilt, I popped in a small motif to fill that space.

If at all possible I will always chose to set up and stitch border patterns this way. 

               

     


Saturday, July 8, 2017

Resize and Aspect Ratio

Patty Butcher explains the resize quilt button and aspect ratio in this video.



The one time I've found this useful was when I had stitched and saved a wholecloth quilt that was about 40inches square.  I then decided to make a miniature quilt exactly the same, so I simply resized the quilt, with the aspect ratio locked, down to 24inches square. It looked exactly the same on the screen but turning on the grid, or going to true size, showed how the whole quilt had been scaled down. I stitched it out at that size too. At the smaller scale I had to reduce the speeds on iQ to get an accurate stitch out.
Why would you want to do this? If you had made a quilt for a child and wanted to make the same one for their doll, or pet.
It's a fun thing to do.